Dear Jake & Amelia,
We made it to Keet Seel!!! We went to Navaho National Monument intending to visit Betatakin, which we did. The ranger giving the tour kept talking about the ancient village of Keet Seel. She was so inspiring that, when we got back to the visitor's center, we asked if any permits were available. That ranger said, "Yes, tomorrow." As you know, we didn't have any backpacking equipment with us. We drove into Kayenta and bought a small inexpensive dome tent, two thin foam pads and two polyester blanket bags at the General Store. We made it back to the park just in time for the trail orientation. We tied all our new gear onto our day packs which we loaded up with food and several gallons of water. 

Early the next morning we were off to Keet Seel! The hike was beautiful. From the mesa top, we descended 1200 feet down switchbacks and sand dunes, stashed a gallon of water for the hike out, then followed the river into the canyon. Sometimes, mostly, we were walking on sand. Occasionally the ground quivered beneath our feet. We stepped quickly off the quicksand. We walked through fields of  purple blue flowers. Sage brush covered the higher ground. Beyond, red cliffs spotted with the deeper green of juniper and pinion rose up to a blue sky filled with puffy white clouds. We hoped that it wouldn't rain. The last half mile, after hiking 8 miles, took us across the stream bed, up a sandy bank and over flat land to an oak grove. There we rested in the shade, waiting for the ranger.

The village was magical. A large, graceful arc swept across the face of the cliff. The area within the arc had been carved out by erosion. Across the bottom was a line of buildings, a line as graceful as the arc above. A composition of square forms, held in place by a long retaining wall, sat in the shadow of the overhang.  Climbing a 70 foot high ladder, we followed the ranger into the village. Ancient structures sat along a street that ran the length of the village. The buildings to our left were older than the more complex forms to the right. Tall tapered poles rose from the walls. The walls were made of heavily mortared and chinked stone or of jackal, vertical branches covered with mud. In the village, we traded stores with the ranger, looked, photographed and absorbed the special feeling of Keet Seel.

The tent, by the way, supposedly 6' x 6', turned out to be more like 5' x 5'. It was not a comfortable night. Next trip, we're bringing our own gear. Our shoulders ached when we got back to the camper, but seeing Keet Seel was worth every tired bone and every sore muscle. We think you'll understand our craziness.

Nancy & Peter

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